Block Printing of Akola
Hand Block Printing
History
Hand block printing dates back to the Indus Valley civilization. Akola in Rajasthan pioneered Dabu printing, a mud-resist technique. The Chhipas, along with Neelgars, Rangrez, and Dhobis, played key roles in its development. Though Dabu printing declined post-independence due to machines, it has recently revived, reflecting a renewed appreciation for traditional textiles and handcrafted techniques.
Raw Materials and Tools
Key materials include plain cotton fabric, mud resist paste (mud, lime, gum arabic), sawdust, and natural dyes like Kashish, indigo, pomegranate skin, and alizarin. Essential tools include carved wooden blocks for printing, large dyeing vats, wooden sticks for mixing paste, and drying spaces for sun exposure.
Process
Dabu block printing begins with washing the fabric. Mud resist paste, made from soaked mud, lime, and gum arabic, is sieved for smoothness. Wooden blocks stamp the paste onto fabric, followed by a sawdust sprinkle and sun-drying. The fabric is then dyed, dried, and washed to remove excess paste. Multiple dye dips create layered colors, enhancing intricate designs.
Design and Color
Akola block printing uses natural dyes like indigo, alizarin, pomegranate skin, and Kashish, producing earthy hues. Its motifs, inspired by nature, include Kahma, Lal Titri, Dholika, and Kantedar. Traditionally, Jat and Gujjar women wore these prints on Phetiya skirts, symbolizing a deep bond with nature. Designs feature peacocks, mangoes, cornstalks, sunflowers, and geometric patterns, reflecting regional beliefs and traditions.
Product Range
To meet modern market demands, Akola Dabu printing now features new blocks and patterns, expanding its product range to include dupattas, stoles, and saris. Traditionally, this craft was primarily used for clothing, especially women’s garments. The most common product was the Phetiya, a long, flowing skirt worn by Jat and Gujjar women in Rajasthan. The evolution of designs and products reflects a blend of heritage and contemporary appeal.
